裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)就是將(jiang)衣料分(fen)(fen)割成各種形態衣片(pian)的工(gong)藝(yi)。有批量裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(又稱工(gong)業裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian))和(he)單件裁(cai)剪(jian)(jian)之分(fen)(fen)。

　　批量裁剪

　　按(an)照服裝號(hao)型系列(lie)制(zhi)作(zuo)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)進(jin)行多疊(die)層(ceng)的(de)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。是服裝工(gong)業生產(chan)中的(de)主要裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)形(xing)式。主要步驟(zou)為：①材(cai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)檢驗。主要是對衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)伸縮率、色牢度、耐熱(re)(re)度的(de)理化(hua)檢驗，檢查疵點，測幅(fu)(fu)寬，整理緯斜以及熱(re)(re)預縮等。②制(zhi)定(ding)(ding)規(gui)格(ge)和(he)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)。根據服裝款式、規(gui)格(ge)、衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)性能(neng)和(he)縫(feng)制(zhi)工(gong)藝要求，用(yong)(yong)(yong)硬(ying)紙板(ban)制(zhi)成(cheng)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)，并制(zhi)定(ding)(ding)規(gui)格(ge)搭(da)配等。③排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)。將(jiang)(jiang)各衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)排列(lie)在(zai)衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)上(shang)或(huo)(huo)(huo)與衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)幅(fu)(fu)寬相同(tong)的(de)紙上(shang)，以求最大限(xian)度地提高(gao)衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)利用(yong)(yong)(yong)率。④劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)。按(an)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)確(que)定(ding)(ding)的(de)格(ge)式，依樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)劃(hua)(hua)出衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)輪廓和(he)記(ji)號(hao)。批量大的(de)產(chan)品通常用(yong)(yong)(yong)漏花樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(將(jiang)(jiang)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)線(xian)路鉆(zhan)成(cheng)等距連(lian)續針孔的(de)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban))，以刷(shua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(用(yong)(yong)(yong)粉末刷(shua)入孔內使(shi)之漏下顯形(xing))取代劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)。20世(shi)紀60年(nian)代出現用(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)服裝設計的(de)計算機(ji)輔(fu)助設計系統(CAD)，按(an)實樣(yang)(yang)(yang)或(huo)(huo)(huo)比例繪出排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)圖(tu)的(de)新技(ji)術。⑤鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)。按(an)排料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)所需長度、幅(fu)(fu)寬、數量，將(jiang)(jiang)衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)多層(ceng)疊(die)鋪(pu)在(zai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)臺上(shang)。50年(nian)代除手(shou)工(gong)鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)外，采用(yong)(yong)(yong)手(shou)推車或(huo)(huo)(huo)往返式電(dian)(dian)動(dong)鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)操作(zuo)。80年(nian)代應(ying)用(yong)(yong)(yong)微電(dian)(dian)腦(nao)控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)自(zi)(zi)動(dong)鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)，能(neng)自(zi)(zi)動(dong)進(jin)行正、反面交(jiao)叉或(huo)(huo)(huo)單面鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)，自(zi)(zi)動(dong)理邊、記(ji)數等。⑥開(kai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)。按(an)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)線(xian)路將(jiang)(jiang)衣(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)成(cheng)衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)。通常用(yong)(yong)(yong)立式電(dian)(dian)剪(jian)刀(見日用(yong)(yong)(yong)五(wu)金)，最高(gao)開(kai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)厚度可達160mm，薄型織物約200層(ceng)。此外還有(you)各種輔(fu)助裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)設備，如(ru)帶式裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)布機(ji)(又稱環形(xing)刀裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)機(ji))、沖(chong)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)機(ji)等。60年(nian)代末出現使(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)電(dian)(dian)腦(nao)控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)自(zi)(zi)動(dong)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)機(ji)(CAM)。⑦分包。將(jiang)(jiang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)好的(de)衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)按(an)不同(tong)的(de)規(gui)格(ge)、顏色歸類，分成(cheng)若干包。⑧編(bian)號(hao)。將(jiang)(jiang)一(yi)件(包)服裝的(de)各組合(he)衣(yi)片(pian)(pian)編(bian)成(cheng)同(tong)一(yi)個順序(xu)號(hao)。有(you)以包編(bian)號(hao)或(huo)(huo)(huo)以件編(bian)號(hao)兩種。襯衫、睡衣(yi)等產(chan)品通常以一(yi)匹同(tong)色原料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)按(an)序(xu)編(bian)號(hao)，對易產(chan)生色差(cha)的(de)采取分層(ceng)以件編(bian)號(hao)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)自(zi)(zi)動(dong)號(hao)碼機(ji)打印。⑨扎包。將(jiang)(jiang)產(chan)品的(de)組合(he)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)片(pian)(pian)按(an)規(gui)定(ding)(ding)的(de)搭(da)配要求包扎在(zai)一(yi)起，并在(zai)包外注(zhu)明標號(hao)，掛上(shang)標簽。在(zai)服裝加工(gong)廠給客戶做大貨時就(jiu)會用(yong)(yong)(yong)批量裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)的(de)方法(fa)進(jin)行。

　　單件裁剪

　　對(dui)合體(ti)要(yao)求較高(gao)或(huo)特(te)殊體(ti)型的(de)(de)定制服裝加工(gong)、樣(yang)品等(deng)進(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)行裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。根(gen)據(ju)穿著對(dui)象的(de)(de)體(ti)型或(huo)樣(yang)品測(ce)取各(ge)(ge)種裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)數(shu)據(ju)。上(shang)衣(yi)(yi)主要(yao)測(ce)量部(bu)位(wei)有衣(yi)(yi)長(chang)(chang)、胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)(wei)、肩寬、袖長(chang)(chang)、領圍(wei)(wei)。緊身(shen)式女裝還(huan)需增測(ce)腰(yao)(yao)圍(wei)(wei)、臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)、乳高(gao)、乳距(ju)、前后(hou)(hou)腰(yao)(yao)節長(chang)(chang)度(du)等(deng)。褲的(de)(de)主要(yao)測(ce)量部(bu)位(wei)有褲長(chang)(chang)、腰(yao)(yao)圍(wei)(wei)、臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)、上(shang)襠(dang)長(chang)(chang)。單(dan)件(jian)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)方(fang)(fang)法(fa)主要(yao)有 5種。①比(bi)例法(fa)：即(ji)胸(xiong)(xiong)度(du)法(fa)或(huo)臀(tun)度(du)法(fa)。上(shang)衣(yi)(yi)以(yi)人(ren)體(ti)胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)(wei)為(wei)基(ji)礎，下裝以(yi)人(ren)體(ti)臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)為(wei)基(ji)礎，對(dui)其他部(bu)位(wei)尺寸(cun)(cun)根(gen)據(ju)胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)(wei)或(huo)臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)進(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)行比(bi)例分配。②原(yuan)型法(fa)：又(you)稱基(ji)型法(fa)。依測(ce)量人(ren)體(ti)的(de)(de)尺寸(cun)(cun)為(wei)基(ji)準，繪(hui)制模(mo)(mo)具式衣(yi)(yi)片原(yuan)型，然(ran)后(hou)(hou)在(zai)原(yuan)型基(ji)礎上(shang)按款式特(te)點作局部(bu)調整，再進(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)行裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。③定寸(cun)(cun)法(fa)：用(yong)文字或(huo)圖形將(jiang)(jiang)各(ge)(ge)部(bu)位(wei)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)所需數(shu)據(ju)全部(bu)標(biao)出(chu)，然(ran)后(hou)(hou)按標(biao)出(chu)的(de)(de)尺寸(cun)(cun)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。④短寸(cun)(cun)法(fa)：對(dui)人(ren)體(ti)各(ge)(ge)部(bu)位(wei)盡可(ke)能進(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)行測(ce)量，然(ran)后(hou)(hou)按取得的(de)(de)數(shu)據(ju)進(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)行裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。⑤立體(ti)法(fa)：在(zai)人(ren)體(ti)模(mo)(mo)型或(huo)人(ren)體(ti)上(shang)直接塑(su)造服裝款式，并做好(hao)各(ge)(ge)種標(biao)記，是將(jiang)(jiang)設計造型和裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)融(rong)為(wei)一體(ti)的(de)(de)方(fang)(fang)法(fa)。縫制前還(huan)需復原(yuan)為(wei)平面(mian)，作必要(yao)的(de)(de)修正或(huo)復制成樣(yang)板。常用(yong)于裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)某些立體(ti)感強，造型難(nan)度(du)高(gao)，衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)柔(rou)軟，具懸(xuan)垂特(te)性的(de)(de)女式時(shi)裝。服裝加工(gong)廠給客戶(hu)打版時(shi)就會用(yong)單(dan)件(jian)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)方(fang)(fang)法(fa)進(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)行。